Tomatoes, Grapes & Burrata with Pistachio Dukkah
When it's too hot to cook, make this summer stunner.
I write this newsletter from my childhood patio in Sacramento, CA, where it’s already 90°F as 11am approaches, with highs of 104°F on the horizon. This weather is a whole different kind of too-hot-to-cook weather. Even more than a few minutes with the stove on feels like a challenge, and no one in their right mind is going to be out grilling in the evening during the hottest part of the day. This is what I like to call “assembling weather”—think grazing boards laden with veggies, dips, and cheeses, plus sandwiches and, of course, big salads.
Inspired by a salad I had at Sapa Bakery in Mysore, Karnataka, this combination of bright, tangy heirloom tomatoes, crisp green grapes, mint, and creamy burrata is what warm-weather, no-cook dreams are made of. It’s all dressed with lemon zest, lemon juice, and good extra-virgin olive oil, allowing the fruit to shine in all its sunshine-y glory.
My twist is adding a generous sprinkle of dukkah—a North African nut-and-spice-blend—which lends both roasted depth, but also swoonworthy crunch. Yes, it requires 3 minutes of toasting a mix of coriander, cumin, and fennel on the stove, but using store-bought roasted pistachios and roasted sesame seeds reduces the actual time heat is required. But, if you really can’t be bothered to turn on the stove—I understand!—dukkah is available at some specialty food shops and even Trader Joe’s now. I won’t tell if you use store-bought, but if you make your own, you’ll be able to use it in next week’s newsletter recipe, too—and, I promise, it’s a good one.
Tomatoes, Grapes & Burrata with Pistachio Dukkah
This recipe makes about ⅔ cup of pistachio dukkah, so you’ll have plenty leftover. It keeps for up to 1 month in an airtight container, so you’ll have epically delicious, roasty-toasty flavor at your fingertips. It’s great on any salad, of course, but is also a terrific topper for dips and spreads—hummus, baba ganoush, feta, yogurt!—fresh cheeses drenched in olive oil, sandwiches, toast, and chilled soups. I also love using it to enhance breading for chicken cutlets, combining it with more roasted sesame seeds and panko (I usually do a 1:1:2 ratio of dukkah to sesame seeds to bread crumbs).
Serves 4 to 6, as a main or 6 to 8, as part of a spread
INGREDIENTS
For the dukkah
1½ tablespoons coriander seeds
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
¾ teaspoon fennel seeds
⅓ cup whole, shelled roasted pistachios
3 tablespoons store-bought roasted white or black sesame seeds
½ to 1 teaspoon powdered Guntur Sannam chilies, silk chilies, urfa chilies, gochugaru, or piment d’espelette
1 teaspoon flaky sea salt, such as Maldon or fleur de sel
½ teaspoon Diamond Crystal or ¼ teaspoon Morton’s kosher salt
For the salad and assembly
1 lemon
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
¾ teaspoon Diamond Crystal or ½ teaspoon Morton’s kosher salt, plus more
1 pound mixed heirloom tomatoes (I like a mix of cherry tomatoes and larger ones)
1 cup green grapes (about 6 ounces)
A big handful of fresh mint or basil leaves
8 ounces burrata
METHOD
To make the dukkah, heat a small skillet over medium heat. Add 1½ tablespoons coriander seeds, 2 teaspoons cumin seeds, and ¾ teaspoon fennel seeds, and toast, stirring frequently until the coriander turns a couple shades darker and the spices smell toasty, 1 to 2 minutes.
Transfer the toasted spices to a mortar and let them cool for 10 minutes. Pound the spices into a medium-coarse powder, then add ⅓ cup whole, shelled roasted pistachios and continue to gently pound breaking the nuts up to the size of pebbly sand. Stir in 3 tablespoons store-bought roasted sesame seeds, ½ to 1 teaspoon powdered Guntur Sannam chilies, 1 teaspoon flaky sea salt, and ½ teaspoon Diamond Crystal or ¼ teaspoon Morton’s kosher salt, and transfer to an airtight container (this recipe will make more than you need for the dish).
Alternatively, you can grind the spices in a spice grinder, chop the pistachios by hand, and mix everything together with the remaining dukkah ingredients.
In a large bowl, whisk together the zest of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, and ¾ teaspoon Diamond Crystal or ½ teaspoon Morton’s kosher salt.
Cut 1 pound heirloom tomatoes—for medium-to-large tomatoes, cut them in big chunks, wedges, or slices, and for cherry tomatoes, halve them or leave them whole if they are small. Add the tomatoes to the bowl with the tomatoes, then halve 1 cup green grapes, add them to the bowl along with a big handful of torn tender green herbs, and gently toss to coat. Taste and season with more salt, if necessary.
To serve, place 8 ounces burrata (I use two 4-ounce balls) on a serving platter, cut an X across the top with scissors, and spoon the dressed tomatoes and grapes around the cheese, then drizzle everything with any remaining dressing. Sprinkle with a liberal amount of the pistachio dukkah and serve immediately.
Make-ahead: The dukkah can be made up and stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 1 month. The rest of the salad is best made right before serving.
No burrata, no problem: If you can’t find burrata, this dish works with fresh mozzarella—buffalo milk mozz is especially good here—just rip it into big pieces and nestle it amongst the tomatoes and grapes. If you want something a little punchier, a milder feta, like French feta, or grilled slices of halloumi would be divine! Or, if you want to make this salad vegan, you can skip the cheese all together.