Cozy cooking season is right around the corner, and while I am writing this newsletter from a balmy perch at The Royal Bombay Yacht Club in Mumbai (it’s hot, y’all), I couldn’t be more excited for warming soups, nourishing stews, sumptuous braises, and of course, pots of slowly-simmered meatballs upon my return.
My perfect meatball will forever be my Grandma Rose’s meatballs. Grandma by name and not blood, Rose was a fiery Italian-American woman who lived across the street from me growing up. Browned and then cooked for at least an hour in a large pot of bubbling marinara sauce, these meatballs were—and still are—something to dream about. So tender, a fork could easily slide through them, but without being too mushy, with just enough dried herbs that the subtle, sweet taste of oregano would linger on your tongue, tempting you back for another bite.
Over the years, I’ve made a few deviations from her original recipe, but the result is just as dreamy. The finely ground breadcrumbs get swapped out for a combination of lighter, airier, panko bread crumbs, dried oregano, toasted, coarsely ground fennel seeds, and garlic powder. And, freshly chopped parsley leads the way instead of dried, bringing some herby freshness—plus, don’t forget a generous amount of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano for lotsa cheesy, umami goodness. I’d like to think even with these slight changes, they are still Grandma Rose-approved.
The tomato sauce is inspired by another Italian cooking icon, Marcella Hazan. Her tomato sauce is as easy as crushing some whole tomatoes with your hands, adding them to a Dutch oven along with a quartered white onion, and a few tablespoons of butter. I like adding a sprig of fresh basil, as well, but this sauce is as simple and delicious as it gets. Plus, it allows the meatballs to really shine. Hungry, yet?
Grandma Rose’s Meatballs
These Italian-American-style meatballs make an amazing partner for spaghetti, I also love serving them with garlic bread and a nice green salad dressed in a bracing vinaigrette to counterbalance the richness of the meatballs. If you’re serving these meatballs with spaghetti and want a good amount of sauce to toss the pasta in, double the sauce recipe (I usually switch from a small white onion to a large one instead of two onions).
When it comes to oregano, I like the Sicilian and Greek varieties for this dish. My favorite Sicilian one comes on a beautiful branch from Gangi Dante, and for the latter, my go-to is Daphnis and Chloe’s Aegean Isle Oregano.
Makes 24 meatballs (Serves 4 with leftovers, or 6)
INGREDIENTS
2 large eggs
¼ cup milk
¾ cup panko bread crumbs
1½ teaspoons garlic powder
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted and coarsely ground
1 pound ground beef
½ pound ground pork
½ cup finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 teaspoons Diamond Crystal or 2 teaspoons Morton’s kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 small white or yellow onion
1 fresh basil sprig (optional)
METHOD
Whisk 2 large eggs and ¼ cup milk in a large bowl. Add ¾ cup panko bread crumbs, 1½ teaspoons garlic powder, 1½ teaspoons dried oregano, and 1 teaspoon toasted, coarsely ground fennel seeds to the egg-milk mixture and stir to combine. Let sit for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425°F. Move the bottom rack so the bottom of the oven is easily accessible (this is where you are going to bake the tray of meatballs).
Add 1 pound ground beef, ½ pound ground pork, ½ cup finely chopped fresh parsley leaves, ½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, 2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal or 1 teaspoon Morton’s kosher salt, and ½ teaspoon black pepper to the bread crumb mixture and mix to combine, being careful not to overmix (no one wants tough meatballs!). Optional, but recommended: take a small piece of the meatball mixture and cook it in a pan or microwave. Taste the cooked sample and adjust salt, if needed.
Drizzle a rimmed sheet pan with 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil. Divide the meatball mixture into 24 pieces, then with lightly oiled hands, roll the pieces into balls and place on the oiled sheet pan about ½” apart. Bake on the floor of the oven until cooked through and deep golden on two sides, 12 to 14 minutes, flipping ⅔ of the way through.
While the meatballs are baking, start the sauce. Using your hands crush 1 28-ounce can whole tomatoes into a high-rimmed skillet or Dutch oven. Add any remaining liquid to the pot and rinse the can out with ½ cup water, adding it to the pan. Peel 1 small white or yellow onion and cut in half, leaving the root end intact. Add the onion halves, 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, 1 sprig of fresh basil, if using, and the remaining 2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal or 1 teaspoon Morton’s kosher salt, and place over medium-low heat. Cover, bring to a simmer, and keep warm until the meatballs are roasted.
Add the baked meatballs to the tomato sauce along with ¾ cup water, reduce the heat to low, cover again, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the meatballs can easily be cut in half with a fork, at least 1 hour, up to 2 hours. If the sauce is reducing too much during cooking, add a splash or two of water to keep the sauce at your desired consistency. Serve the meatballs with spaghetti or alongside nice crusty bread (garlic bread is great, too!), plus a simply dressed green salad.
Make-ahead: Like any braised or slow-cooked dish, these meatballs are even better the next day. Add a splash or two of water and heat over medium heat until the sauce is simmering and the meatballs are heated through. Because I am a small household, I usually freeze half the batch (and, my future self is always grateful). Store in an airtight zip-top, freezer bag for up to 6 months.
Some like it hot: If you like a little bit of heat, throw in a spoonful or two of Calabrian chile paste into the meatball mix for almost spicy Italian sausage vibes, or add to the tomato sauce. For a subtle kiss of smoke and fire, I love adding two dried Sirārakhong Hāthei chilies to the sauce, removing them before serving.
Looking for a vegetarian version?: Use two packages of Beyond or Impossible plant-based meat instead of the beef and pork combo, and up the panko bread crumbs to 1 cup.
Grandma Rose made a mean mestball, but what an adorable baby you were!
These sound delicious, and that picture is beyond adorable!