Cheat Lemon Pickle
Psst, the secret is store-bought preserved lemons.
There are a handful of ingredients in my kitchen that fall into the category of pantry powerhouses—adding big, bold flavor with just a spoonful, drizzle, or pour—fish sauce, tomato paste, harissa, sambal, Better Than Bouillon, doenjang, and of course, preserved lemons. The latter is the key to my quick, cheat lemon pickle, or achaar. Usually lemon achaar needs to be cured for up to 4 weeks, but this version takes a helping hand from already preserved lemons, resulting in a zippy-zangy achaar in just 24 hours.
The spices in citrus pickle vary from kitchen to kitchen. This version is chock-full of South Asian pickling spices—coriander, cumin, fennel, and fenugreek—plus a hearty dose of ground chilies and turmeric, which bring heat and earthiness.
And, for paid subscribers, there is a bonus recipe for you. Put your lemon pickle to hella delicious use in Achari Shrimp Scampi. Paired with some of the same spices and a few other simple ingredients, some kind of alchemy happens, resulting in plump, succulent shrimp liberally coated in a tangy-spicy-buttery sauce so good you’ll be licking your fingers (and, maybe even the bowl, no judgement).
Cheat Lemon Pickle
When it comes to the powdered chilies in this recipe, Kashmiri chilli powder is a placeholder. The lemon pickle is great with solely Kashmiri chilies, but if you came here from Diaspora Co., you know there is a whole world of South Asian dried chilies—from mild Byadgi and fruity Guntur Sannam to smoky Sirārakhong Hāthei. I like my achaar chili-forward, so I use the full 1½ tablespoons of ground chilies. When testing, I used 2 teaspoons Guntur Sannam, 2 teaspoons Kashmiri, and ½ teaspoon Sirārakhong Hāthei.
During the winter, I often will make my own preserved lemons, but they always disappear faster than I anticipate. Luckily, there are a handful of crafters producing great jarred versions. The brands of whole preserved lemons that have graced my pantry include: Les Moulins Mahjoub, Villa Jerada, and Belazu.
INGREDIENTS
1 7- to 9-ounce jar preserved lemons
½ cup neutral oil, such as canola or rapeseed
6 cloves garlic, halved lengthwise
2 teaspoons coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 to 1½ tablespoons Kashmiri chilli powder (see headnote)
2 teaspoons turmeric
½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds (optional)
Pinch of hing (optional)
METHOD
Drain 1 7- to 9-ounce jar preserved lemons, saving the bring for another use (it’s great in dressings, marinades, and used, as well, brine—hello, preserved lemon-brined fried chicken!). If any salt is clinging to the lemons, rinse it off and gently pat the citrus dry. Quarter the lemons and remove any seeds, then slice each quarter crosswise into ¼” pieces. You should have between 7 and 9 ounces of drained, chopped preserved citrus. Place the cut preserved lemon in a sturdy medium bowl (you’ll be pouring hot oil over these).
Combine ½ cup canola oil and 6 halved garlic cloves in a small saucepan or tadka spoon, and place over medium heat. Heat until the garlic starts to turn light golden around the edges. Increase the heat to medium high, add 2 teaspoons coriander seeds, 1 teaspoon cumin seeds, 1 teaspoon fennel seeds, and 1 teaspoon black mustard seeds, and cook until the coriander seeds turn a shade darker, 30 to 45 seconds.
Turn off the heat and add 1 to 1½ tablespoons Kashmiri chilli powder, 2 teaspoons turmeric, ½ teaspoon fenugreek seeds, and pinch of hing, if using. Swirl gently for 30 seconds and then pour over the chopped preserved lemon. Stir to coat the citrus in the spiced oil, allow to cool to room temperature, and then transfer to a jar. Gently press the citrus down so a thin layer of oil is covering the top, seal, and refrigerate for 24 hours before using. This will keep in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.